My good friend, Mellowy G., bought some sausages the other day, from a quality butcher in Edinburgh. There were two types: venison with herbs, and pork with Mediterranean herbs. Starting with the venison, here is my review.
First impressions are good. These sausages have a decent weight to them, suggesting a high meat content. In their raw state, they are a characteristic speckled grey colour, rather than the unalluring pink of a lesser specimen. On cooking, very little fat was expelled, reflecting the lean nature of good venison. Venison is a very lean meat anyway, because deer get plenty of exercise running away from Sloane Rangers in Barbour jackets.
On piercing the skin with my fork, a satisfying ‘pop’ was given before the yield. Further penetration showed that the meat was finely ground and very dense. In a breakfast application, just one these bad boys is enough. The chew was good, with the skin providing only minimal complication. Consistency was excellent and firm, if a little on the dry side and I found the pepper and herbs to slightly obscure the taste of the meat. The gamey/grainy taste normally associated with venison had been bevelled off somewhat, but the combination of herbs and texture made for a highly satisfying munch.
Next up, pork and Mediterranean herbs, which I ate with mash and gravy (two sausages this time, as it was the only meat on my plate). These little monsters seemed lighter than the venisons, but nevertheless performed well in the turgor test (hold a raw sausage at one end, wave it around and see how floppy it is). The skin was nice and dry, leaving no fatty residue and, cutting them apart, they were a delight to handle.
Again, very little fat (for a pork sausage) was yielded, and the cooking smell was divine – unlike some lesser specimens, which can end up smelling like burned sausage fat. On the whole, I preferred these. They were indeed lighter, though with a satisfying density. The herbs were less potent and I could detect the more delicate flavours of rosemary and even mint. The mash and gravy provided adequate lubrication for any dryness issues, but I think these would have worked fine on their own, or even in a sandwich.
All in all, I preferred the pork with Mediterranean herbs. Venison feels more decadent, and there is no doubting that these are of a very high quality. I would certainly buy the venisons if I were in the mood. However, in terms of balance of flavours, subtlety, texture and general satisfaction, the porkies came out on top. I didn’t do a head-to-head comparison, plus I sampled the different sausages in different meals, but my overwhelming preference was for pork. This surprised me, since I normally prefer the more obscure meats. Nonetheless, a good effort on the part of both sausages and thank you once again, Mellowy G.


